Hyperpigmentation & Melasma: An Indian Skin Reality Check
By The Rejuvene Clinic
Pigmentation is the single most common skin concern walking into Indian dermatology clinics. It's also the one with the most myths circulating online. Here's the honest, evidence-based version — without the "fairness in 7 days" nonsense.
Indian skin is different (and that matters)
Our skin produces more melanin and reacts more intensely to inflammation, heat, and UV. That biology gives us natural sun protection — but it also means a single pimple, a scratch, or a few weeks of unprotected sun can leave a mark that lasts months. This is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and it's why "treat the cause first" matters more for us than for fairer skin types.
The three main patterns
Tan sits on the outermost layer and responds quickly to sun avoidance, gentle exfoliation, and vitamin C.
PIH (after acne, eczema, injury) is deeper and slower to fade — typically 3–6 months even with treatment.
Melasma is the trickiest. It's a hormonal-and-UV-driven pattern, often symmetrical across the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. Melasma can't be "cured" — but it can be controlled, sometimes for years, with the right plan.
What actually works
Sunscreen. Not optional, not negotiable. Broad-spectrum SPF 50+, ideally tinted (iron oxides block visible light, which also triggers melasma). Reapply every 3–4 hours during the day.
Topical de-pigmenting agents. Niacinamide, alpha arbutin, tranexamic acid, kojic acid, and prescription strengths of hydroquinone (used in cycles, under guidance) are the backbone of treatment.
In-clinic support. Targeted clinical peels (Ferulac, Sesglicopeel, Azelac), Q-switch laser sessions for stubborn melasma, and IPL for sun-induced patches all have a role — selected based on your specific pattern.
What makes it worse
- Skipping sunscreen "because I'm indoors"
- DIY lemon juice and turmeric packs (acid burns + photosensitivity)
- Steroid creams marketed as "fairness creams" — these damage the skin barrier and rebound far worse
- Aggressive scrubbing, which triggers more pigmentation
Setting realistic expectations
Genuine pigmentation treatment takes 3–6 months of consistency to show clear improvement, and longer for melasma. Anyone promising you a fairness leap in 2 weeks is selling you something you'll regret.
When to see a dermatologist
If pigmentation is worsening, symmetrical, recurring after pregnancy or contraceptive changes, or accompanied by redness — a proper diagnosis matters. Melasma treated as plain "tan" almost always gets worse.